With graphic black and white, hard-hitting punk, folksy tribal, military styling and an Eighties comeback, the continuation of a Seventies Summer tells a story of multiple influences for Fall/Winter 2015-2016, in a celebration of personal style. We edit the trends on the runway this Fashion Week.
1. Graphic black and white
Checks, stripes, diamonds, zebra print and Rorschach-style motifs all came into play this fashion month. Black and white prints at Valentino, Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci created an optical style illusion, ready to be reflected on the street in myriad ways.
From left to right: Valentino, Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci.
Also seen at: Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Louis Vuitton.
2. Reefer jackets
Based on the U.S. Navy's double-breasted blue coat, the reefer jacket is back for Fall/Winter 2015-2016. In a seafaring echo to the military trend, at Chloé the reefer was worn ultra long, while Nina Ricci paired it with a sheer lace skirt. At Michael Kors it was thrown over the shoulders, Italian-style
From left to right: Chloé, Nina Ricci and Michael Kors
Also seen at Isabel Marant, Victoria Beckham, Jil Sander.
3. Arctic fur
Summer's tribal trend comes in from the cold for Fall, as designers looked to the indigenous cultures and costumes of more northerly climes at Dsquared², Lanvin and Sacai. Dan and Dean Caten went Arctic with Eskimo-style fur hoods and Alber Elbaz turned to his native Morocco and its folk prints and Berber stripes, while over at Sacai, Chitose Abe adorned his sheepskins with super long plaited threads in a tableau of an African queen.
From left to right: Dsquared², Lanvin and Sacai
4. Velvet nights
Seen at Ralph Lauren, Valentino and Chloé, full-length velvet is big for next season. Long, flowing gowns for evening cocoon the body for a striking silhouette that looks set to light up Paris nights come Fall.
From left to right: Ralph Lauren Collection, Valentino and Chloé
Seen also at: Givenchy, Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin, Maison Margiela
5. Quilted jackets
A big, fat trend spotted in dresses at Fendi, skirt suits at Chanel and Nineties brights at Moschino, the padded jacket was everywhere this fashion month. Wrap up warm, your below-zero wardrobe is covered.
From left to right: Fendi, Moschino and Chanel
6. Military style
With regimentary navy blue jackets with gold frogging at Gucci, silk stripes, woven pompoms and braid at Lanvin and long black capes with epaulettes and leather buttons at Valentino, military style is on the offensive for Winter. Fashion's front line will be inspired by officers of the US Navy, the Moroccan guard and the Queen's Coldstream guards come Fall.
From left to right: Gucci, Lanvin and Valentino
Also seen at: Isabel Marant, Chloé, Moncler Gamme Rouge
7. Slick vinyl
“Something more liberated, darker, more sexual” was how Raf Simons described Dior Fall/Winter 2015-2016 with its vinyl trenches, backstage at the show. The high class hooker-esque look also look popped up at Loewe in Eighties lipstick red and at Maison Margiela in floor-grazing jet black, in a part punk, part off-the-wall-aristo reinterpretation.
From left to right: Dior, Loewe and Maison Margiela
8. Breton stripes
A Paris style classic, next Winter's Breton stripes were punky at Saint Laurent, form-fitting at Isabel Marant and Lurex glitter Sonia Rykiel.
From left to right: Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant and Sonia Rykiel
Also seen at: Junya Watanabe
9. Folk patchwork
In a continuation of Summer's upscale hippy feel, Burberry, Chloé and Etro showed Seventies-influenced wardrobes packed with slouchy luxe shapes. Front and center were patchworks of silk and velvet with a mash-up of bohemian prints that brought Talitha Getty back to life.
From left to right: Chloé, Etro and Burberry Prorsum
10. Skin to skin
Cozy fabrics, soft lines and gentle shades of sable and camel make for easy-wear Winter shearling that slips on like a second skin. In floor-skimming inside-out style at Chloé, modern aviator girl at Ralph Lauren or paired with python at Lanvin.
From left to right: Chloé, Ralph Lauren Collection and Lanvin
Also seen at: Acne Studios, Kenzo, Valentino
11. Marshmallow colors
Baby blue, candyfloss pink, spring chick yellow and almond green made a welcome change from the more intense colors of Summer, marking a definite move towards pastels and acid bonbon shade at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani.
From left to right: Prada, Dolce & Gabanna and Giorgio Armani
Also seen at: Dior, Loewe, Fendi..
Designers looked to the punk-rock scene for Fall/Winter 2015-2016 with full-on leather, slashed pants, mini-skirts over ripped tights and chain and stud detailing. Think dark, rebellious Joan Jetts at Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Givenchy.
From left to right: Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Givenchy
Also seen at: Alexander Wang, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte
13. Back to the Eighties
If Summer is all about the 1970s revival, J.W.Anderson, Loewe, Moschino and many others turned a page in history for Winter, with a Eighties comeback packed with bright looks punctuated with touches of Lurex, patent leather, quilting, vinyl and velvet. Accessories of note included geometric earrings atJ.W.Anderson, ski-mask sunglasses and neo-caps in red leather at Moschino.
From left to right: J.W. Anderson, Loewe and Moschino
The rivet took center stage on the runway, in an echo of the galactic trend seen everywhere this season. Circuitry-inspired at Mugler, Star Wars-style at Anthony Vaccarello and white star-shine at Calvin Klein Collection.
From left to right: Calvin Klein Collection, Mugler and Anthony Vaccarello
Also seen at: Sonia Rykiel
15. Snow White fur
Soft + warm + white was a winning equation on the Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Giambattista Valli runways, each of whom reinterpreted the classic fur coat in purest white.
From left to right: Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Giambarista Valli
Also seen at Tommy Hilfiger
16. Jersey dresses
If last Winter was all about flares and chunky knits, this time around its the dress that gets the jersey treatment. A new essential, seen at Céline, Stella McCartney and Chloé.
From left to right: Céline, Stella McCartney and Chloé
Also seen at: Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Calvin Klein Collection, Sonia Rykiel
17. Leopard print on acid
Off-the-wall reinterpretations of Diana Vreeland's favorite print brought us leopard print in glorious Technicolor this Fashion Week. Dipped in fluro paint, acid-bleached, yellow and red and Louis Vuitton, turquoise blue at Miu Miu and canary yellow at Max Mara.
From left to right: Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Max Mara
Also seen at: Haider Ackermann
A common denominator at Bottega Veneta, Paco Rabanne and Louis Vuitton was a high-shine wet-look finish that played with the light. It was a trip back through time, from tulle scattered with sequins and silver thread at Bottega Veneta and Paco Rabanne's jersey and metallic update of the classic 1960s aluminum, celluloid and rhodoid mini-dresses, to starshine rivets at Anthony Vaccarello.
From left to right: Bottega Veneta, Paco Rabanne and Anthony Vaccarello
Also seen at: Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Saint Laurent..
While the rest of fashion was looking to military, punk and folk for inspiration this season, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto continued with what they do best: flirting with the conceptual. In a refusal of the season's main trends, designers actually created another one with dresses that called to mind origami, pillowcases and drafting tables. Meet the concept dress.
From left to right: Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto
Also seen at: Vivienne Westwood
20. Head-to-toe sequins
The girls shone like glitter balls at Nina Ricci, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren, as designers pulled out all the stops with statement evening wear. Sequin-covered looks look set to light up the dance floor next season.
From left to right: Ralph Lauren Collection, Marc Jacobs and Nina Ricci
Also seen at: Dries Van Noten, Maison Margiela, Sonia Rykiel